How to Embroider

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric with designs using strands of variously coloured threads or yarn using a needle and a variety of different stitches. Did you know that there are over 400 different embroidery stitches? However, beautiful results can be achieved by using only one or two different stitches.

For centuries embroidery has been undertaken by hand; however, nowadays professional machine embroidery is big business in itself. It is the hand-craft that I will be discussing here. Here you see me wearing a hand embroidered traditional Breton costume.

Like every craft, there are some tools of the trade.

What you will need.

Embroidery is an inexpensive craft to learn.. The only things you need are material to stitch, a hoop, a needle, a pair of scissors, and embroidery thread (also called embroidery silk, or floss).

Needle: Embroidery needles are often called “Crewel” needles. Crewel needles have an elongated hole (or eye) through which to pass the thread. This kind of needle is easier to “thread” than ones that have a small round eye.

Hoop: This can be a cheap wooden hoop, or a heavier plastic. It is actually two hoops: the outer one is adjustable, the inner one is not. Loosen the outer adjustable hoop and separate the hoops. Place your fabric across the smaller inner hoop and push the outer adjustable hoop over it. Then tighten the outer hoop and gently pull the fabric around the edges much like the head of a drum. Continue around the edge pulling the fabric taut so it creates a smooth, even work space.

NB: You don’t have to use a hoop, but it will keep your work from puckering up.

Scissors: Any scissors that you already have should be fine. However having a small pair of scissors with a fine point will be of more use than a large pair with a blunt end.

Embroidery Thread: The thread used for embroidery is may also be called embroidery silk or embroidery floss. There are several different kinds of embroidery threads. Perhaps the easiest to start with are the unstranded twisted cotton threads. Most other embroidery threads are composed of six strands. It is rare that you would use all six together. What is usual is that only two strands are used at any one time. That means you have to split the six strands into three. The unstranded thread does not need to be split, and that is why I recommend it for beginners. It is just that much easier and less likely to tangle. You can buy this at any craft store. You can also find it in almost any color, giving you another reason to love embroidering.

Material: Fabrics made of natural fibres, such as 100% cotton, that does not have a tight weave, are definitely the easiest to work on (i.e. linen, calico, tea towels, pique, and muslin). However, you can embroider on just about any kind of fabric.

Pattern or Design: It is best to learn how to make all the stitches first before you embark on any set design. However, I am sure that you are also anxious to get started on a project. Some craft stores may have iron-on transfer embroidery patterns and designs. However, if you cannot find any of those, you copy designs from books or online with the use of Water-soluble or vanishing ink pens: You’ll find these in the quilting department of any craft store. They can be your best friend when you can’t find a pattern you like. You can draw on the fabric and depending on which you get, you just remove the ink with a wet washcloth, or wait 24-36 hours for the ink to disappear. These pens are not expensive and are a great idea if you have some designs of your own in mind.

Optional Items:

Thimble: These things drive me bananas, so you will not see me using one. However some people insist on them, so I’m just putting this out there that you might want to try using one. If your finger does get sore from pushing and pulling the needle and a metal or porcelain thimble doesn’t work for you, you can always try a rubber one, which feels a little more natural and comfortable to use.

Needle threader: These are great if you have any trouble threading needles, particularly as when using embroidery threads you will usually be using more than one strand at a time through the eye of the needle. They are not very robust, so be kind to them. I usually manage to break them after a while. They consist of a piece of wire attached to a small round thin metal handle. The wire is inserted into the eye of the needle, this leaves a nice large opening the other side of the needle through which to place the thread. Then gently – I repeat – gently pull the thread through the eye of the needle by pulling the wire back through the eye of the needle.

Now to Begin:-

The first thing that you need to do is learn some basic stitches. Practice these on any old piece of cloth until you feel confident with them, then you can use them on whatever design you choose. We will discuss designs later, once you have mastered enough stitches for the purpose.

Stem Stitch.

This stitch is used, as the name implies, for stems; and also for anywhere else that requires an outline. It forms a smooth straight, or gracefully curving line. It becomes difficult if you try to use it in too tight a curve. That is, it is not very good for small circles. I find Back Stitch better for tight curves.

Stem stitch is created by bringing the threaded needle up through the fabric, then down again a couple of millimetres further along the line what you wish to follow. The needle is then brought up through the fabric again back a little from the point where it went down and close beside the line just formed. The needle is again pushed down through the fabric a couple of millimetres further along the line bringing it back up again close to the line and back a bit from the point where the needle went down again. Continue in this manner until the line is completed. Return the needle to the wrong side of the fabric and fasten if off neatly with a small knot.

Back Stitch.

Back stitch is a hand sewing stitch most usually used to sew the seams of garments together, but can be used to good effect in embroidery. If you look at the back of the fabric upon which you have just done some stem stitching, that is what back stitch will look like. So, in effect, Stem Stitch and Back Stitch are the reverse of each other.

Back Stitch is also very good for creating outlines. It is formed by bringing the needle up through the fabric and down through it again a millimetre or two back along the line you wish to follow, then bringing it up again through the fabric a millimetre or two further along your line. Then bring the needle down through the same hole as the end of the previous stitch. Once that is done bring the needle up a millimetre or two past the end of the stitch just formed along you line, and bring the needle back and down through the same hole as the end of the previous stitch. Continue is that manner until you have completed the line.

Blackwork.

Just to whet your appetite – here is a cool e-book that I found giving you everything you need to know on how to embroider blackwork. What is blackwork? Blackwork is a form of embroidery using only black thread on a usually white background. However, you could do it on whatever coloured background that you like. I was quite impressed with some of the designs displayed on the website; and I think that it would be a fun thing to do.